During these short days of December, January and February  take advantage of every mild day to give your garden cold frame a thorough ventilation. Plants with green leaves are never really dormant unless the temperature drops to freezing.

Pansies and sweet violets should be flowering now, provided the temperature is right. Remove blooms instead of allowing them to decay on the plants. Whenever feasible, stir the soil, especially if you have to give water. If violets seem tardy in flowering, don’t be concerned. They’ll pick up in January, when the sun gets higher, if the temperature can be kept at 40° to 45°. In a lower temperature, flowering will be delayed until around March.

By now you should be picking lettuce, Chinese cabbage and cress, the current problem with them being to keep the temperature above freezing. Little further development can be expected from these crops, nor is it advisable to try to carry them through winter. Cress and radishes will go to seed as soon as spring growth begins.

If the wooden frame greenhouse is used principally for carrying plants through the winter which are liable to damage outdoors, that’s another story. Simply cover cold frames over with hay or straw and leave them. Allow snow coverings to remain. In addition to pansies, biennials carried over in this way include English daisies, forget-me-nots and Canterbury bells. Perennials carried over include chrysanthemums and red-hot-pokers (kniphofia).

The gardening cold frame design offers yet another possibility for usefulness… the propagation of trees and shrubs by means of hardwood cuttings. These are cuttings taken after leaf fall and after plant tissue has been subject to several frosts. The list of plants suitable for propagation by hardwood cuttings is extensive. It includes the mockorange, butterfly-bush, privet, chaste-tree (vitex) , rose-of-Sharon, willow, deutzia, weigela, false-spires (sorbaria), jetbead, flowering quince, hydrangea, tamarisk and many others. Currants, grapes and gooseberries are propagated by this method also.

Although the garden cold frame is ideal for this method of propagation, you may run into the problem of needing the frame in early spring for raising seedlings before it’s possible to transplant the cuttings to the garden. But the project fits in very well if you don’t plan to use the frame for seedlings before March.

Build Cold Frame

More Vegetable & Flower Gardening Tips With Coldframes

Gardening In February: Maple Syrup, Sugar, Seed Planting Dates

By February 23, if all hard freezes are over in your area or you have a way to provide supplemental heat to your cold frames or tunnel houses if needed, go ahead and plant young cabbage plants and onions.

Gardening With A Cold Frame

Not all of us (in fact, few of us!) are lucky enough to have greenhouses like this one to get us through winter. A cold frame, on the other hand, might be just the thing.

Cold Frame: Extend Your Vegetable Garden Season

A cold frame is a bottomless box with a clear or translucent top. It is set on the ground or over a planting bed to capture solar energy and heat the air, soil, and plants inside.

Cold Frame From An Old Window

But you can start seedlings around now, either indoors or in a cold frame like this one from Instructables, which is recycled from an old window. The window acts like a little greenhouse to protect the seedlings from the cold.

Cold Frame Calendar: Harvest to Table

As the seasons progress there are several uses for a cold frame. Start cool-temperature spring vegetable seeds and seedlings in late winter. Start summer warm-temperature vegetable seeds and seedlings beginning in early- or mid-spring.

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To the beginning gardener the idea of tucking plants under cover in the fall may seem a natural and desirable way to keep them warm during winter. But he soon learns that it is not cold that does most damage to perennial plants, but unseasonable warmth. This, of course, does not apply to plants of questionable hardiness in any locality; they are not considered here.

Plants of proven hardiness may be relied upon to survive cold weather, even benefit from it, both roots and tops. Winterizing garden plants in general, protection is needed to prevent the soil from thawing out; for evergreens in particular, protection is used to minimize the drying effect of winter winds and sunshine upon the leaves.

The top growth of plants in the winter garden, of course, is subjected to much colder temperatures than their roots. The soil in even our coldest areas rarely freezes deeper than 3 to 4 feet. Lowest temperatures are found in a hard frozen crust at the surface. Even that is rarely colder than zero and tends to insulate the soil below it, where the temperature rises rapidly the deeper you go. Air temperatures fall much lower, and occasionally rise much higher than those in the soil. When this happens trouble starts.

Herbaceous perennials with tops that die down to the ground in a winter garden have relatively shallow roots. When an unseasonably warm spell thaws a few inches of the frozen soil crust, puddles are created where water stands. This excludes air from the plant tissues below it, which may cause disease, decay and death. If the water stands long enough the plants will drown.

When alternate freezing and thawing spells are frequent, heaving may lift shallow-rooted plants entirely out of the soil, or raise them enough so that they lose contact with soil moisture. If this goes unnoticed until too late for correction, the plants will die.

Protect Outdoor Plants & Shrubs In The Winter

A mulch to winterize the soil over herbaceous plants, put in place after a frozen crust has formed in the fall, tends to stabilize soil temperature, forestall thawing, and save the plants from frost heaving. The shallower the roots of the plants, the more necessary the mulch is to winterize the plants.

Peonies and iris suffer considerably from frost heaving. All plants that maintain green crowns through the winter, such as: foxgloves, Canterbury bells, primulas and chrysanthemums, are highly susceptible to decay from surface water and excessive dampness. The mulch protecting these particular plants must admit light and air to the green foliage, otherwise it will die and the plant will starve.

Excelsior, glass wool, evergreen boughs and old baskets inverted over the plants are often used to give protective shade while admitting both light and air. Where there is no green growth above the soil surface, materials such as dried leaves, straw, marsh and salt hay, dried lawn clippings, sphagnum moss, peat moss and strawy manure serve the purpose.

"Mulch" comes from a word root meaning decay. Apparently, strawy manure was the original mulch, and (its use is ancient. Fifty years ago it was commonly spread over lawns in the fall, where it did more harm than good, contributing an annual sowing of weed seeds. Lawns need no mulch over winter, but they do suffer almost every spring from frost heaving. A light roller should be used after the soil begins to dry out to press the turf in contact with the earth.

A planting of bulbs of doubtful hardiness will find the soil much warmer when a mulch is strewn over the ground above them. If it is heavy enough, it may cause the ground to thaw to the surface. Snow, said to be the ideal mulch, often does this when it lies several inches deep for many days.

Even in the best regulated gardens, setting out of hardy bulbs is sometimes delayed until late fall. A mulch applied after planting and before the soil freezes will keep it from freezing and permit the bulbs to make roots much later than otherwise. Since the soft soil attracts hungry field mice the practice is not advisable except where late planting makes it necessary.

Roots of deciduous trees and bulbs hardy in your area need protection only when newly planted. Then, a mulch keeps the moisture in the soil to prolong the fall season during which new root growth can develop.

A drying out which would easily be survived by a deciduous plant during its dormant period may kill an evergreen, which transpires water throughout the winter. While the ground is frozen, roots are limited to moisture already in the soil. A permanent mulch on the surface around each plant is beneficial and should be replenished each fall. Before hard freezing, the ground should be soaked deeply several times, to insure a reserve water supply.

Evergreens exposed to drying winds and direct sunlight may need to be shaded by artificial means. Burlap-covered frames are often set up with this aim in view. Laths nailed one inch apart to a supporting frame are also useful. Large baskets may be set bottoms up over small plants.

The foliage of evergreens occasions another difficulty; it often catches enough snow along extended branches to break them. Strong twine wound around the tree, holding the branches close to the trunk will prevent such damage.

Winterizing garden Bush roses are usually protected by piling garden soil 6 to 12 inches high around their stems. In colder areas, the spaces between plants are filled with strawy manure or compost and the bed then covered with a one-foot layer of leaves, straw or similar material.

Wood of rose bushes rarely kills back below the point reached by the piled-up soil. In the spring, dead wood is cut out and stems chosen for development are cut back to selected buds. This method produces low-growing plants. If taller roses are desired, the roots of a plant may be loosened on one side and the plant bent down to the ground, where the stems are covered heavily with soil.

Climbing rambler roses are usually hardy without protection, but the canes may be laid on the ground and covered with soil, straw or evergreen boughs, after the old canes are pruned out.

Winterizing garden plants in rock gardens, where true rock plants rather than a miscellaneous assembly are grown, by following these tips. No heavy mulching materials such as manure, dead leaves, peat-moss, etc., should be spread over the plants, since the remedy is apt to cause more trouble than the weather.

Evergreen boughs, glass wool, excelsior and other materials that let in air and light are the solution, especially for plants that retain green top growth over winter. These provide shade from winter sun and reduce frost heaving and puddles resulting from warm weather. Beware of coverings that harbor field mice, though.

A vital point in all winter protection is good surface drainage for the whole garden, lawns as well as borders. Standing water during winter thaws is always a hazard to plants. Thus, it is important to provide low places where such water naturally collects, with means of draining it away. Even though it may mean digging temporary drainage ditches in some cases, avoiding those icy puddles around prized plantings is of primary importance to next year’s garden.

More Help

Winterizing The Garden

Getting the yard and the house set up with Christmas lights is a great time to think about winterizing the garden. You can put a string of Christmas lights around sensitive plants. I put a string around my aloes and my citrus plant.

How to Winterize Your Lawn For a Beautiful Spring Lawn

Garden and Landscape Ideas. If you’re someone who likes to do things on the spur of the moment it is probably a foreign concept for you.

Winterize A Garden

When things get chilly, it’s time to put your garden to bed for the winter. What, you didn’t know that gardens hibernate just like squirrels and bears? I kid.

How to Winterize Your Lawn

Winterizing is especially helpful if the lawn isn’t in optimal health to begin with. One backyard plan you can use will help you do your landscaping. You should never go to a garden center and just buy whatever plants you see.

Fall and Winter Gardening Tips

Family First review of Fall and Winter Gardening Tips.

How to Make Flowers Last Through Winter

Even beginners can grow roses with little trouble when learn the basics of maintenance. There are some gorgeous ideas for backyard rose gardening. Here you will find some rose and flower gardening tips for the beginner.

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Fall Flower And Gardening Checklist – Part 2

When preparing our flower beds and garden in the fall for the upcoming winter we do not want to forget about these! Here we review what to do now for your lawn, house plants, and planting shrubs and trees.

LAWNS
Seeding and feeding are best done now. There is less weed competition and grass grows best in most places, in autumn. Cut and remove crab grass before it sheds its seeds. Clean out other weeds too. Loosen the soil in bare patches, work in grass fertilizer or a complete plant food, then sow with a grass mixture suited to your conditions. If fall-planted grass gets an early, strong it can stand the late fall raking of leaves without damage.

Even on a good lawn, plant food and extra seed are advisable. For such "extra" growth use 3 pounds plant food and 1/4 pound grass seed to 100 square feet.

In making a new lawn in the fall, dig the area and mix peat moss and plant food with the surface soil. If extra topsoil is needed put on at least 2 inches. Rake and roll two or three times to get an even, firm surface. Sow 1/2 pound grass seed per 100 square feet. Rake and finally roll using a 200 pound roller.

HOUSE PLANTS
It’s time to take in house plants, and to dig up and pot others to be used indoors. Geraniums, actively growing petunias, and dwarf salvia are suitable. Cut away a third of the tops before digging: pot firmly, water, and keep in a warm place.

PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
Transplant evergreens any time in September or early October. This applies to conifers, pine, spruce, hemlock and the like and the broad-leaved kinds: rhododendrons, mountain laurel, azaleas and similar plants. All growth has matured. The plants come with a ball of soil. Set the plants at same depth they were in the nursery. Their roots are near the surface and will be injured if buried deeply. All must be watered thoroughly and the soil packed against the ball. Mix good soil with peat moss or humus plus a handful of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant.

Late September and October is also time for ordering and transplanting the deciduous (leaf dropping) trees and shrubs. The few possible exceptions are magnolia, birch, cherry and dogwood, although when dug from the nursery dogwood is safe.

Unless the trees or shrubs are large, a ball of soil is not necessary. Most shade and flowering trees up to 10 feet high can be transplanted bareroot. However, keep the roots moistened until planted. Pack screened soil between the roots and flood with water. Single stemmed trees planted this way should be secured to two stakes.

Fall Plant And Tree Care

More Tips For Fall Flower Growing And Planting

Fall Is The Time To Plant Flower Bulbs

Bulbs are a wonderful addition to any yard or garden. Once planted, bulbs take little care and are a surprise when they pop up and take on life and color.

Fall Is For Planting

If I plant in the spring I only get one chance for roots to grow before summer. If I plant in fall I get much more root growth and time for the plant to establish itself.

Transformed Garden Plants Become Indoor Plants

Fall is a good time, before frost, to pot up a few chosen plants for continued bloom in the house long after freezing weather has brought an end to the garden season. Ageratum, lobelia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigolds, and petunias. All of these bulbs should be dug with great care just like caring for spathoglottis so that they will not be cut or injured by the spade or fork.

Fall Tips of Gardens and Growers

A great deal of thought will be given to house plants during the next few months. The object will be to keep them growing and blooming through the dull days.

The Important Fall Garden Activity

Garden Sanitation – This all-important job should precede all other fall garden activities. Following the vacation period, many garden plants need to be groomed. Remove all dead foliage and old blooms from the plants or from the bed.

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Fall Flower And Gardening Checklist – Part 1 

When Autumn comes, you have a hundred ways, to improve your garden… its looks, health, its prospects for next spring. Cool weather makes it easy to get things done: there is less rush than when you are are doing spring chores. Proper care now makes everthing easier in the spring. Here is a checklist of all gardening ideas to make it easy to be sure that everything is done. Take out your pen or pencil and mark the ideas that fit your garden, just as you make a list of things to order for fall planting.

THE LATE FLOWERS
Dahlias, chrysanthemums and roses need water now, but no fertilizer. Overfeeding may result in soft plants that may be injured by winter freezing. Dahlia roots may become too soft for storage. Dust them or spray with sulphur or an all purpose chemical to prevent mildew. Stake and tie tall plants against September winds.

LILIES
Madonna, canadense, martagon, superbum and the Washington lily, all known as base rooting, are planted in early autumn. The other, or stem-rooting kinds, are planted either in late autumn or early spring. Base rooting kinds start growing immediately. Cover the bulb top with no more than 3 inches of soil. The soil must be well drained.

PEONIES, IRIS, OTHER PERENNIALS
Peonies are also lifted, divided and replanted in autumn. The whole plant is carefully raised, the soil washed out from the roots and the plant separated into sections… each section or piece with no less than three eyes (buds); five to seven are better for there is more chance of flowering the next year. Peonies planted in fall get a good spring start.

Peonies need a rich deep soil. They should last for 25 years. Dried cattle manure, 4 parts, mixed with 1 part bone meal and worked in before planting will help, if the regular rotted manure is not available. When planting bury the buds no more than 1 inch deep. Peonies must have full sunshine for best results.

Roots of bleedingheart are handled similarly. Exceptionally brittle, they are more easily separated if allowed to dry somewhat in the sun.

Iris clumps can be, separated too, at this time. If the sections are not too small, three to four roots (rhizomes), they will flower next year.

Perennials of all kinds can be lifted, divided and replanted October to early November. Prepare the soil and incorporate manure or compost with bone meal and superphosphate before replanting.

THE HARVEST: BULBS AND ROOTS
Cut the tops of dahlias, cannas, and tuberous begonias soon after the first frost. Leave 6 inches of a stub for handling dahlias. Begonias and cannas are stored with all possible soil on the roots to keep them from drying out. Ordinary cellar conditions are suitable.

Dahlia roots must dry slowly. Leave in a place out of the sun. When the soil dries on the roots, clean them off, reduce the old stem stub still more and store in peatmoss, ashes, or sawdust in a cool cellar or garage where they will not freeze.

Gladiolus can be lifted before frost, or as soon as the leaves turn brown. Dig with the leaves attached. Dry as soon as possible, then cut off the leaves, remove the paper-like covering from around the bulbs (corms) and, before storing, dust with an organic dust. Discard spotted and diseased corms, and the old shrivelled corms. Store in shallow boxes or mesh onion bags. Old nylon stockings do well too.

Fall Activities For Your Garden

Gardening In The Fall

Frankie’s Early Fall Gardening

Garden mum – treat as annual. Fall is the time to spring into gardening!! Seriously most think spring is the best time to garden but fall is just as good and in my mind a better time to garden.

Fall Gardening Tips

Fall Gardening Tips. Here are a few garden tips I’ve found online…I’m not really very good at gardening (inside or out!), so I can use all the hints I can get! Bring in your houseplants that have summered outdoors.

Any Southerners Doing A Fall Garden?

I am! I have seeds started for Mustard Greens, Collard Greens, Carrots, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Onions, Peppers, and Tomatoes.

Fall Gardening Tips

I’m always looking for new ways and ideas to extend the garden season. So I asked Willi if she would be willing to write a guest post on my blog on fall gardening tips.

Fall Garden Clean-Up

I know a lot of people pack their gardening gloves away at the end of summer. Our attention turns toward the holiday season and then the long haul of winter. But I love gardening in the fall.

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